Glock Up - I recently wrote an article about why I prefer the GLOCK 19 over all other concealed carry pistols. It's a great little weapon, but it's still upgradeable and I'm not very good at disengaging.
Alone, while I could spend a little more money to make a gun even better! The GLOCK left the factory so well that I had to think hard about my modifications because I don't want to make the gun worse instead of better. Here are some areas that I covered with my personal GLOCK 19 for you to consider. I will even admit that I destroyed everything in one area and went BACK to the Glock part.
Glock Up
From the factory, they are plastic sieves. The stock front sight has a white dot, and the rear sight has a U-shaped white frame, which shooters refer to as the "ball in the bucket" sight picture. The ball in a bucket is simple and works pretty well, but the plastic construction is unfortunate. If you only shoot your Glock at range and you don't see any work from the holster, it might be good to leave it alone. Those of us who carry our Glocks and practice unconcealed draws will quickly find that the front sight wears out from being scraped as it is holstered and reholstered. Worse are the stories of sudden failures where the front sight is completely destroyed, leaving the shooter with a straight slide and nothing to aim at. This could be an internet phishing story, I've never seen this happen with my own eyes, but why random? I think night sights on a carry gun can be of great benefit, so I went with the full set from Ameriglo. The front dot is your standard green tritium night sight and the rear dots are yellow. The amber ones aren't that bright, so in low light my dominant eye quickly finds the front sight and the trail really stands out. During the day, I ignore the dots and focus on the shape of the style. Since Ameriglo scopes are made from ground steel and use tritium tips from Trijicon, I have full confidence that they will last. Honorable mention goes to the XS "Big Dot", which sacrificed precision for an even faster display. My friend Brad swears by him and I can't fault his reasoning for carrying them on his Glock. Finally, skip the "ghost ring" sights if you haven't tried it and really don't like it for some reason. Sights work well on my AR15 where my eye is extremely close to the rear ring. In a pistol I couldn't see any advantages to them and boy was it strange that they looked after years of shooting with standard pistol sights? At least I was willing to try them.
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The first thing I did with the trigger on my Glock was to carefully polish the metal-to-metal contact areas while pulling the trigger. This is often called a 25 cent trigger job because assuming it already exists, you would use 25 cents of polishing material to do it. Cheaper than dirt! I was a gunsmith before I came to work for it, so this sort of thing is second nature to me. First timers will want to be careful. Be sure to polish the metal and not remove the metal; you don't want to change any of the contact angles or the amount of surface area. The idea is to create the same effect as if the gun had fired thousands of bullets and all those parts rub together over time. So much. After polishing the inside, my trigger pulled wonderfully smoothly with a predictable reset that I could feel "click" when the trigger was ready to pull again. I should have left him there alone. But in another shooter Ghost, Inc. There is a Glock with a 3.5 pound plug attached. It was also a very nice trigger, so I installed one of those. I thought the combination of my polish work and the lighter trigger pull would make a good trigger. Guys, this is why we test every change with live fire. I trained myself through thousands of repetitions to feel the trigger reset, one of the strong points of the Glock's firing system. Firing the gun for the first time with the Ghost plug connected went like this: It's smooth, now I would pull the trigger very lightly and then find the reset and as soon as the reset was clicked the trigger would instantly pull again. When I found myself “milking” the trigger like this, I slammed the Glock like a YouTube ignoramus pulling on a Slide-Fire stockpile of free ammo. Yes huh! Sure, it was fun for a Glock to fire about 600 rounds per round. minute of ammo as the trigger rocked back and forth during the reset - hooray, poor man's Glock 18 submachine gun! However, this is a serious concealed carry gun, not a toy, and the point of having a good trigger is to maximize my control of that gun while saving my life or someone else's. A trigger that gives me
Gun control is nothing but a responsibility. I removed the Ghost plug and reconnected the factory 5.5 pound plug.
I like the idea of an extended magazine version to make my reloads faster, but I don't like the factory extended mag version that Glock puts on the larger models 34 and 35. The gun recoils. For a low rev counter session I can tolerate it, but just barely. Vickers Tactical has a better solution. Mag versions stretch a little more than the factory part, not that much. It is nicely rounded to prevent rubbing or accidental bumps in your hands. Perfect for me, I need to push the gun in my hand a bit while reloading to squash on the mag release, but not as much as on the stock unit which hardly ever comes out of the frame. I also have a Vickers slide stop. We also have Glock extended slide stops that come installed on the 34 and 35, but I prefer the Vickers. As with the extended mag version, the Vickers slide stop feature makes subtle changes. In general, it has the same shape as the factory skid stopper, but is made of thicker metal, with some bumps at the top and heavy serrations at the bottom. Over the years I have trained myself to usually avoid the slide stopping completely when shooting with both hands. Instead, I manipulate the entire slide. But if I'm shooting one-handed, it's still handy to be able to use the slide stop to release the slide with my thumb or trigger finger. It is also easier to lock the bolt using the Vickers bolt stop. Are these parts really necessary? None. Thousands of Glock shooters do just fine without them, and the changes they've made to the way I shoot are minimal. However, they optimize the weapon and make it a little easier to manipulate. They are inexpensive parts and will not hurt the reliability of the Glock.
There are a few Glock mods that I will not do. I will not be replacing any of the internal sliding parts. You're a weirdo when you dare fire a Glock
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A feeling that some people don't like. Sometimes people replace strikers and striker springs with aftermarket parts to "fix" this. The problem is that these parts are designed for competition guns and advanced shooters. These folks are trying to cut down on lockdown time and other advanced cheats and are willing to pay a credibility penalty to cast magic in a 3-gun match. Titanium strikers and aftermarket springs can cause occasional misfires. In a concealed carry gun I wouldn't take that risk. I'm just a mortal and the lock time makes no practical difference to me, so all the slide inserts are stock and stand alone. Actually all the internals of the gun are factory Glock, I just polished a few areas to help with the trigger. Reliability comes first and I'm not going to make any changes that I think will hurt reliability in the slightest. Another modification I don't need is "grip reduction" where people cut and poke polymer frames with heat guns. This greatly ruins the resale value of the gun (not that I plan to sell mine) and is completely unnecessary to me because the Glock 19 fits my hands perfectly as is.
There isn't much to do with the Glock that I haven't done before. One thing I'm thinking of doing is replacing the standard plastic sword with a steel one when it comes time to replace it.
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